Nagato city in Yamaguchi Prefecture is located on the scenic northwestern coast of the Japan Sea.

It is also known as the former Prime Minister Abe’s ancestral hometown and home constituency. Abe hosted Russian President Vladimir Putin in Nagato for a two-day summit to discuss the Kuril Islands territorial dispute in the relaxing setting of a hot spring. Otani Sanso is a Japanese Ryokan surrounded by lush greenery.

Nagato used to be part of Choshu, which played a pivotal political role in Japanese history, leading to the Meiji Restoration

In addition, many historical figures, including Yoshida Shoin and Ito Hirobumi, were from Choshu and played pivotal roles in the Meiji Restoration.

Nagato is historically a fishing and maritime trade hub, and much of Nagato’s coastline is preserved within the Kita-Nagato Kaigan Quasi-National Park.

It was my first time visiting Nagato. A couple of years ago, I visited Hagi, not far from Nagato, which used to be the capital of the Mohri Clan, one of the most powerful clans during the feudal age. The Mohri Clan governed the present Yamaguchi (then known as Choshu) for more than 250 years and played a central role in bringing about the modernization in Japan.

Nagato is my ancestor’s place as well

This is a special trip to me, because my ancestors were samurai serving the Mohri Clan in Nagato about 400 years ago. After the loss at the Battle of Sekigahara between Tokugawa Ieyasu and Mohri Motonari, the Mohri Clan lost many territories and was forced to reduce its samurai retainers. With this background, my ancestors moved to Kokura to find opportunities after giving up their samurai status. I found many of my family names here in Nagato, which deeply moved my heart.

How to Get to Nagato

We took JAL 291 from Haneda Airport,departing at 8, to Yamaguchi Ube Airport, arriving at 9:40.

Then took a bus at the airport to Shin-Yamaguchi station for 30 min.

Then changed buses at Shin-Yamaguchi station, departing at 11:15 for Nagato Yumoto Onsen, arriving at 12:20.

Otani Sanso’s culinary philosophy is based on three principles, namely, local ingredients, local methods, and local dishes.

Here’s our dinner kaiseki course menu, called “Fresh Breeze in Nagato”. We savor the flavors of Nagato. It was divine!

Fresh breeze in Nagato

Appetizer   Boiled conger eel sushi

                     HAGI sesame-seed pattern  fresh ginger

                      Dressed with jelly

                     Micro tomate and Yasuoka green onion

                     Japanese basil

                     Wasabi

Sashimi         Today’s catch

                     With Tosa soy sauce & Marusan soy sauce

Side dish             Boiled abalone marinated in Yakuzen(medicinal food) style

                     Frilled leaf   Hagi seaweed   Red potherb mustard

                     Nagato fruit tomato

                     Goji berries Pine nut

                     Sprout,  Iwakuni lotus root with tomato dressing

Deep-fried food        Puffer with Setouchi lemon and Manganji pepper

Cold bowl      (A dish best served cold)

                     Local fresh vegetables

Egg plant, Shiitake mushroom, Grated Daikon raddish

Main dish       Kuroge Waghu sukiyaki

                                White onion, Onsen egg, water leaf

Rice               Yamaguchi Ato Koshihikari rice

Soup             Akadashi miso soup

                                With Senzaki seaweed, pea sprouts, Sansho pepper

Japanese pickles      Takuan (yellow radish pickeled in Tamari Soy Sauce), Hakusai (Chinese cabbage), zucchini

Dessert          Hagi Summer orange jelly, water melon, grapes